Zagros Mountains, Southwestern Iran (2025)

High in Iran’s Zagros Mountains, some Bakhtiari nomads still migrate on foot with their flocks, tracing centuries-old paths through snow, canyons, and the constant chime of bells. In a country marked by draconic sanctions, water scarcity, and rapid urbanization, their seasonal journey—known as the Kooch—is both a fight for survival and a living heritage on the edge of extinction. This story follows one family through a weeklong migration, revealing intimate moments of struggle, grace, and endurance. Alongside them, a portrait of contemporary Iran unfolds—from villages adapting tradition to city dwellers wrestling with displacement. What remains is a question of identity: what happens when a culture built on movement begins to settle?

Through rough mountain passes and parched riverbeds, the Bakhtiari endure a journey that few outside their community still undertake. The Kooch is no romanticized pilgrimage—it is a test of stamina, will, and deep-rooted connection to a vanishing land. Along the way, the story captures the quiet dignity of a people navigating broken infrastructure, erratic weather patterns, and an uncertain future. In the cities below, modern life pulls at the edges of their traditions. Younger generations face stark choices: abandon nomadism for urban jobs, or cling to a way of life that grows harder each season. Meanwhile, older nomads continue walking paths etched by ancestors, resisting the stillness that modernity demands. At its core, this journey is about more than sheep and mountain trails; it is about memory, belonging, and the resilience of those who refuse to forget where they come from. As Iran changes, the Bakhtiari’s Kooch stands as a moving, living testament to a culture that survives—step by step—against all odds.

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This in-depth narrative, captured through words, photographs, and videos, delves into the resilience and challenges of the Bakhtiari, providing a vivid portrayal of their lives on the frontlines of environmental and cultural change.